Engine Mountings

The engine mounts that came with the engine were those used on the MG ZT, they are aluminium castings that provide a horizontal mounting surface for mounting to large diameter hydraulic mounts.  Unfortunately these were totally unsuitable for use on the truck as they fowled the front suspension.

Here you can see the old cast Aluminium mounting brackets and the picture on the right shows one of the hydraulic mounts in place on my friends MG.

 

The mounts that I am using are aftermarket Mustang versions.  They are of a very different design to those on the MG.

This is what the Mustang mounts look like.  As can be seen their design meant that they sit parallel to the sides of the engine block.  So the brackets that they mount to on the chassis need to lean at the correct angle.

 

To get the angled face required I decided to make a triangulated bracket up out of 4mm thick steel plate and then weld these to the chassis and cross-member. 

I am mounting the engine slightly to one side to allow more room for the steering linkage to the brackets are slightly different each side.

Here are the brackets folded at the correct angle.

 

 

Here you can see both sides in place prior to welding in place and bracing.  For strength and neatness I will be boxing in the front face leaving the back open to get to the mounting bolts.

 

10/06/06

I did some more work on the engine mounts, I decided to plate the front face over to give them added strength and make them look neater. The drivers side can not be completely plated over as the end of the steering rack pokes through it. I test fitted the steering rack to get the right clearance for the hole through the mount and noticed something that I had not accounted for. The pipe work on the rack has a nasty bend that effectively goes straight up right about the mid point of the engine sump. This means that it it now fowled the sump when the engine was on the mounts at the height I had made them.. AARRGGHH!!!.

12/06/06

I ended up welding an extra 3/4" to the bottom edge of the mounts to raise everything.  This then gave the required clearance to the engine sump.  The pictures below show the extra 3/4" that I welded on, prior to grinding down flush.

 

 

 

The finished mounts.

 

 

09/03/10

As I now had a change of direction with regard to the engine I am using, I now had a slight issue with the engine mounts.  Basically the new engine I have has a much deeper sump which means I need to increase the height of the mounts and also cut material away from the centre cross member to provide the necessary clearance.

I had to cut the original mounts off and modify them by adding a wider strip around the bottom edge as I had done previously.  You can see what I mean here:

Here you can see the old mounts have been removed and the cross member modified to provide additional clearance.

 

 

Here you can see the mounts after I struggled to cut them off.  The problem with fully welding things inside and out is that it makes life very difficult if you need to remove it again at a later date.  I wanted to keep them intact as I would be re-using them, so it was a matter of using various tools including cut off wheels reciprocating hacksaw and Dremel to get them off but make sure I could still use them again.  If you look at the pic here you can see the original added strip I welded on.  I cut this off, then added another strip just a bit wider.

Here you can see the modified mount bolted to the engine and offered up to the cross member before trimming and then welding in place.  You can see how much taller it is now with the additional material.  Note that it had a 20 mm strip originally now has a 50mm strip added to in all the mounts are 30mm higher.

 

The finished mounts from the front, side and back views.  Notice the slight lean from the side now.  You can see I also added some external fillet pieces on the inside edges.

 

 

Test fit of the cab with the engine and gearbox in its new location on the new mounts.  It was a good job that I decided to check again as the bulkhead will need some slight modification now due to the engine being slightly too close now as it has moved on a slight arc from where it was originally.