Chassis Paint

The chassis has multiple coats of paint on it.  2 Coats of Rust Bullet Automotive, 3 Coats of High build Primer and there is still two coats of base colour (Anthracite) and then the clear Coat to go over that. 

I wanted to make sure that the chassis had a good rust protection coating on it now that it is in the UK.  It is over 50 years old now and no rust, but it has spent most of its life so far in California so has not had to deal with the rubbish UK weather.

I had a look around at the various rust protection coatings available and decided upon Rust bullet as the best option.  I came to this decision based on the fact that it needs minimal preparation, is a one part two stage treatment and that it comes with a 10 year Guarantee against Rust.  It also seems to come out top on independent tests against the competition.

Here you can see the two coats of Rust bullet applied.  Rust Bullet is a single part two coat process, the first coat bonds to the surface, neutralizes the rust and draws any moisture out.  The second coat then seals the surface.

Here you can see the chassis after the two coats of Rust Bullet applied.  It actually looks pretty good, but unfortunately it is just not the right colour.  For the look I am after the chassis is to be a Dark greay to match the Front Grille and the wheels.  I am going to paint it in an Anthracite, but have not yet found the actual colour I will be using.  I am off down the paint suppliers in the morning to have a look through the swatches.

You can see the way that I suspended the chassis on two engine hoists to get it up in the air high enough to be able to get all round it and ensure that the paint covered every part.

These pictures show the chassis after the three coats of high build primer.  I had to rub down the entire chassis before it was coated with the primer to key up the rust bullet properly.  If painting over Rust bullet you have to key the surface and also need to paint within 24-48 hours after the rust Bullet was applied.  After this time the Rust Bullet cures to an extremely hard surface and is difficult to paint over.

 

A few more pictures showing the front end of the chassis.  You can see the result of all the time spent filling the welded areas and then rubbing them down to a smooth radius.

 

I now have to rub down the chassis again ready for the base coat of Anthracite then it will be finished off with two coats of Clear Coat.

After I rubbed down the primer, I realised that there were still a few imperfections that needed to be sorted.  So I filled the few areas that needed to be sorted and then applied yet more primer.

It was then a matter of rubbing down the entire chassis again ready for the base coat.  The base coat I actually went for in the end is a Daihatsu dark grey metallic.  I looked at what were termed Anthracite in the colour charts, but they just looked too dark and one even looked like it had some blue in it.

After applying two coats of base and then giving it 20 minutes to dry, it was time for the clear coat.  I had a problem when I first started to apply the clear.  I just couldn't get it to lay nicely it just went on like under seal, it was not flowing at all.  After a quick chat with Wayne who is the professional painter at the workshop, he immediately identified the problem as the clear not being thinned enough.  I had not actually thinned it at all... After emptying the gun, thinning the clear and then trying again it was a completely different story.  Now the clear coat went on lovely, it looked like glass or water.  I went over the entire chassis with two coats and then packed up for the night as it was getting too dark to see what I was doing. 

When I came in the following morning and had a good look over the entire chassis it was clear that there were a few areas that I would have to sort out. I had a run on the back right hand corner and another on one of the air shock top mounts .  It was not anything major, but I wanted to sort it out.  So I used some 1500 grade wet or dry on them with a block and the runs came out nicely.  It was then just a matter of re polishing the area with a little G3 paste to get the areas nice and shiny like the surrounding area. 

There were also a couple of areas where the clear coat was a bit flat (Orange peel) so I decided to go over these again.  I also had a couple of imperfections, one from something falling on the chassis whilst it was wet, probably some dirt off the air hose or roof and another area right over the rear axle where it looked like I may have hit the chassis with the air hose and rubbed off a small line of the base coat before it was dry.  I rubbed both of these areas down again and blew in the areas with base coat again and then covered all of the repair areas with clear coat again.  I used a small touch up gun, it only has a little pot and a smaller nozzle so is a lot more controllable to paint a small area.  All of the areas I touched up are now ready for a little blending in and then its just a little bit of polishing required to finish it all off.  So now its time to start actually assembling some stuff.

Here you can see the final result.