The cab was in pretty good condition considering its 50 years old.
After removing it from the chassis, I decided to have it shot blasted to see what the extent of the rot was and where. The main area that suffered was around the roof next to the rain gutter, although from the way it has rotted it looks like it is from the inside out. So I suspect that it was from condensation rather than rain.
There was a bit of rot under the front inner edges too, but on the whole the cab was ok, the cab corners which are the usual areas to suffer are all fine.
All the pictures below show some of the repairs being undertaken;
Filled the old Fuel filler hole. I decide that I will not be putting the tank back in the cab but rather have a new tank under the rear. So I welded up the hole, with a piece of steel cut from the front inner wing sections. They had just about the perfect profile.
After welding I then filled the low spots with lead before a final skim of plastic padding before priming. Unfortunately I forgot my camera on the day I worked on this so only have the pictures of the completed repair, however I have taken a picture from the inside that shows the piece butt welded in place. You can see the good penetration (it was welded in from the outside). You can see the way I welded it in by using lots of small welds to minimise distortion.
Lead loading the seam, then body file (Vixen) followed by a thin coat of Plastic Padding (Bondo) before finally coating in high build two Pac Primer.
I was really pleased with the outcome of the rear seam, especially as it only took me a day. I thought that I would be working on it for a lot longer. The Flexible Sanders that I bought really helped in getting the correct profile. I have still to flat it all off for paint, but that will be done when the whole cab is primed.
I continued the de-seaming of the cab, moving to the front lower seams I started on the driver side but ran out of lead after only getting the one side done. So I had to order some more from a local supplier, hopefully it will turn up first thing tomorrow so I can crack on with the remainder of the seam work.
You can see here the lead in the seam then the final two pictures show the skim of Plastic padding to get the correct profile.
As I did not have any more lead, i thought I would have a go at trying to bring the top right hand side back into shape. It had to have a large section cut out and welded in to get rid of some rot. But this left an awkward shape that had to be formed back out of filler. I have had a first pass that has got it back pretty well, but it still needs some more work.
The other bottom seam after lead filling and filing down with the body file.
The top seams after leading
You can see here that the rain gutter was in a pretty bad shape. It had actually rotted through in one section, but only along the front edge. I did think about welding it up, but in the end decided to Lead it instead to try and keep the rail shape and also help prevent distortion from the heat.
My improvised way to work on the top front of the cab.
The front edge of the roof is going to need quite a lot of work to bring it back to shape after all of the welding and leading. You can see from these two pictures the plastic padding being used to get the profile. This is the third skim of filler.
The back of the cab after a guide coat and block sanding to show the lows. Another couple of coats of high build filler primer should take care of these.
I spent all morning cutting a slot out the back of the cab for a new third brake light. It was my birthday present from Marie. I saw one installed on a 1953 F100 and really liked the look. It is a flush mounting LED type brake light. The lens is only 6mm (1/4") high by 10 1/4" long. This meant I had to cut a very neat slot these dimensions in the rear of the cab under the rear crease line. I was hoping that I would be able to cut the slot using my Dremel tool. But it was just not up to the job. So I ended up having to cut the slot by Drilling a hole at each end then cut between them with an angle grinder with a 1mm thick cutting disc. Then it was a matter if filing by hand to get a perfect fit. It took a couple of hours but it turned out perfect. The only problem is that the cab now flexes quite a bit where I have cut it, so I am cutting a stiffening piece out of 16 swg (Approx 1.5mm) thick Steel with returned edges to spot weld on behind the slot. After cutting the slot, it was back to more filling and sanding of the repairs on the cab.